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Captain's log

14th July

Bastille Day - Liberty, Equalite, Fraternity, for some but not for the indigenous people of the South Pacific. They do not have the choice on the question of independence, and whether weapons of mass destruction should be tested at Moruroa Atoll.

Rainbow Warrior entered Papeete at 0930 hrs. The welcome was tremendous, with Tahitian war canoes, bedecked with flowers and palm fronds escorting us to our berth. The sound of drums and cheering people moved us all. They were there to welcome Oscar Temaru, the mayor of Faa'a, Tahiti's most populous city, and leader of of the independence movement Tavini Huira-atira, as well as the Rainbow Warrior. Oscar had been to Moruroa with us. A quiet spoken, intelligent man whom we all respected greatly. An inspiration to also, to hear of his ambitions and dreams for Tahiti and its people.

As in all ports, Immigration came on board to check crew members against Passports. There was much amusement when six crew members could not be traced - they were of course on "Vega" and the fifth inflatable. Even the principal immigration officer turned to me and winked secretively as if to say- "What are you buggers up to!" We had struck up a friendly rapport with Customs and Immigration in Papeete which is always good for all of us. After the ship had been cleared, we were all taken ashore to partake in a traditional Tahitian feast on the quayside in front of a French warship. Speeches of welcome to us all were heard and I replied on behalf of the R.W. All the time crews on the French warship were busily snapping away with their cameras. We then laid wreaths at a memorial to those who had died since the beginning of nuclear tests at Moruroa Atoll in 1967.

In the evening we were the guests of Oscar Temaru at a house on the beach near Faa'a. It was a beautiful night, clear sky and a moon, almost full. Three beautiful Tahitian girls accompanied by a guitar snag traditional songs for us - I cannot describe the feeling the we experienced - we were in paradise. The kindness and warmth of the Tahitian people will remain with me always.

I was concerned with the security aspect for the R.W. while we were at Papeete. I approached Oscar on the subject and he immediately had some of followers staying on and patrolling the quay for the duration of our stay - it made me feel much easier. We were reunited with our media friends who had traveled on the R.W. to Moruroa. They supported us by staying around when we were forced back to R.W. at Moruroa Atoll. Channel 9's Rob and Janet, Roger from the Times of London, Juliet from AFP Paris - It was good to see them all again. We had a good evening out together needless to say!!

Monday 17th July

Another full day of press and television interviews. The media attention was firmly set on the whereabouts of the mysterious 5th inflatable with David McTaggart, Henk Hazzen, and Chris Robinson. In all honesty we did not know where she was - I'm not sure the media believed us.

We sailed that evening at 1745 hrs. Sadness in many ways to say goodbye to our friends who had been with us to "the place of the dark secret", Moruroa Atoll. Many well wishers were there to bid us farewell as we slowly moved from the quay. We dropped the pilot at 1815 hrs and set course for Rarotonga, a distance of 620 nautical miles.

The wind was very light on passage so we could not set our sails but motored on our two engines. Everybody was exausted and took the opportunity to catch up on sleep!!

Thursday 20th July

We entered the small harbour at Rarotonga and were greeted by the Deputy Prime Minister and school children. It was good to be back again. That evening I was present at a function hosted by the Prime Minister who made the announcement the a "Vaka" traditional canoe would sail to Moruroa as part of the Peace Flotilla.

Saturday 22nd July

Preparing again for sea. Sailing time set for 1200 hrs. During the morning well wishers came to visit us and wish us Bon Voyage. We bade farewell to our video man Gene and stills cameraman Steve where were leaving the ship - we had been together for two and a half months.

A major crisis almost canceled our sailing. I had ordered 50 vegetarian and 50 meat pies. They were due at 1200 hrs but at 2 minutes to sailing - no bloody pies. I requested main engines and commenced letting go when - our pies arrived!! The day was saved and we sailed from Raortonga.

Wednesday 26th July

We now have some wind and are under full sail. We will be arriving Suva, Fiji Saturday 29th July at 0800 hrs for repairs, provisions, and new crew. Then Rainbow Warrior will return to Moruroa Atoll. We will not give up the fight to see the end of this insanity perpetuated by the French Military establishment on the peoples of the South Pacific.

Warm regards - David Enever