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Getting Around the Pacific Northwest

The vast distances between the towns and villages of the Northwest make it essential to think carefully in advance about how you intend to travel from place to place. Amtrak in the US and VIA rail in Canada, provide skeletal but often scenic national rail services, together with a handful of private lines. Greyhound in both the US and Canada provide good bus links between the major cities, while the boats of BC Ferries, Washington State Ferries and the Alaska Marine Highway offer stunning trips up and down the Northwest coast.

It has to be said, however, that things are always easier if you have a car. Many of the most spectacular and memorable destinations in the Pacific Northwest are rural destinations far removed from the cities, and remain aloof of public transportation. Even if a bus or train can take you to the general vicinity of one of the great National Parks, for example, it can be nearly impossible to explore the area without your own vehicle. For that matter, the cities themselves can be so large, and so heavily car- oriented, that the lack of a vehicle can seriously impair your enjoyment.

By Train
By Bus
By Plane
By Ferry
By Car
By Bike

By Train

Travelling by rail is not a terribly viable way of getting around the Northwest, though if you have the time it can be a pleasant and relaxing experience. Neither the American Amtrak, nor the shrinking Canadian Via rail networks serve many centers these days, and services are generally restricted to one or two trains a day on a few days each week. That said, the train is by far the most comfortable - and often the most scenic - way to go, and long-distance rides especially can be a great opportunity to meet people

Amtrak
1-800/USA-RAIL The days when the railroad linked hundreds of communities throughout Oregon and Washington are long gone, but among a handful of surviving lines, the most scenic is the Coast Starlight, which picks its daily way up the coast from Los Angeles and California's Oakland (for bus connections from San Francisco) to cross the Oregon border near Klamath Falls. From here, the train pulls across the Cascade Mountains for Eugene, Salem and Portland, travelling on to reach Washington state at Vancouver, from where it continues to Seattle. The Coast Starlight terminates here - although there are speculative plans to re-open the line up to Vancouver, in Canada. There are two other regional rail lines and each runs daily across the Cascade Mountains: the Empire Builder (from Chicago) links Spokane, in eastern Washington, with either (depending on your chosen route) Portland or Seattle. Alternatively, the Pioneer (also out of Chicago) loops around through Idaho and shadows the route of the old Oregon Trail on its way between Oregon's Ontario, Baker City, La Grande and Pendleton. West of here, the railroad tracks along the Columbia River Gorge to reach Portland - where it pauses before the onward trip up the coast to Seattle.

By Bus

If you're travelling on your own, and making a lot of stops, buses are by far the cheapest way to get around. The main long-distance service is Greyhound in both the US and Canada (though Greyhounds in each country are run by separate companies). Greyhound buses link all major cities and many smaller towns in the Northwest, with Greyhound's BC and Alberta coverage being particularly extensive (there's even a bus up the Alaska Highway). The exceptions are in the Yukon (where the Greyhound network stops at Whitehorse) and Alaska. However, various smaller companies provide a surprisingly good service in these northern regions, together with similar companies on Vancouver Island, in Banff National Park, along the BC coast, and elsewhere. Shoestring and vaguely alternative buses like Green Tortoise are also increasingly a feature of the Yukon, Alaska and Canadian Rockies national parks, where several enterprising companies are providing inexpensive connections to trailheads, to hostels, and between main towns. Check hostel infoboards or visitor centers for details, as such companies inevitably go in and out of business fairly quickly.

Out in the country, buses are fairly scarce, sometimes appearing only once a day, and here you'll need to plot your route with care. But along the main highways, buses run around the clock to a fairly full timetable, stopping only for meal breaks (almost always fast-food dives) and driver change-overs. Greyhound and other buses are slightly less uncomfortable than you might expect, except perhaps in northern BC and the Yukon, where Greyhounds have only about a dozen seats, the rest of the bus being given over to freight. It's feasible to save on a night's accommodation by travelling overnight and sleeping on the bus - though you may not feel up to much the next day.

To avoid possible hassle, lone female travellers in particular should take care to sit as near to the driver as possible, and to arrive during daylight hours, since bus stations are often in fairly dodgy areas. It used to be that any sizeable community would have a Greyhound station, but these days - although some places have the post office or a gas station doubling as the bus stop and ticket office - many have had their bus service cancelled altogether. In remoter settlements, buses do not make scheduled stops, but will halt at specified flag stops if there is anyone waiting; you must be sure of the correct location, as drivers are not obliged to stop anywhere else.

Greyhound have finally introduced a seat-booking system in the US; you can reserve with a credit card up to seven days in advance, and have the ticket mailed to you, or make a reservation on the spot up to 24 hours in advance. In Canada a Seat-Selection scheme operates between the larger cities, principally Calgary, Edmonton and Vancouver in the Northwest. This allows you to book a specified seat on the bus for just Can$1, though you must do so in person at the bus depot. Extra buses are also automatically laid on in Canada if the first bus is full, so you can always be sure of reaching your destination.

Fares average 10cents a mile, which can add up quickly - for example, around US$19 from Portland to Seattle, and Can$70 from Vancouver to Calgary. For long-trip travel riding the bus costs a little less than the train in both countries, though considering the time involved in some journeys - and the preponderance of discount air fares - it's not always that much cheaper than flying. However, the bus is the best deal if you plan to visit a lot of places: Ameripasses for domestic travellers are good for unlimited travel nationwide for 7 days ($250), 14 days ($350) and 30 days ($450). Greyhound produces a condensed timetable of major country-wide routes, but do not distribute it to travellers; to plan your route, pick up the free route-by-route timetables from larger stations in both the United States and Canada.

Northwest Bus Companies
Clallam Transit (206/452-4511) . Services around Washington's Olympic Peninsula.

Empire Trailways (509/624-4116 or 1-800/351-1060). For eastern Washington.

Gray Lines of Seattle (206/624-5077). Daily bus service between Seattle and Victoria, via the Washington State ferry at Anacortes.

Greyhound America (1-800/231-2222). Services throughout Washington and Oregon.

Island Transit (678-7771). Free services round Whidbey Island.

Jefferson Transit (385-4777). Services around Washington's Olympic Peninsula.

Lane Transit (687-5555). Services in and around Eugene.

Northwestern Trailways (1-800/366-3830). California connections to Reno, Boise and Spokane. Spokane to Calgary and Seattle. Seattle to Vancouver, BC and Portland. Also other eastern Washington services.

Pacific Transit System (875-9418 or 642-9418). Services up and down the Washington coast - from Aberdeen to Astoria (Oregon).

Quick Coach Lines (604/244-3744 or 1-800/665-2122). Express services from SeaTac airport to Seattle, Bellingham and Vancouver.

By Plane

Taking a plane is much the quickest way to get about the Northwest, with a plethora of smaller, regional airlines competing on obviously lucrative routes - Air BC, Canadian Partner, Horizon Air and United Express, for example, connect Seattle, Portland, Vancouver and Victoria in various permutations.

If you plan ahead, flying can work out reasonably cheap, often costing less than the train - especially if you take into account how much you save not having to pay for food and drink while on the move - and only a little more than the bus. As well as turning what might be a full day's $35 bus journey in either country into a quick and scenic $75 flight of under an hour, air travel can also - as in the case of many places in Alaska and the Yukon - be the only way of moving around the region. Generally you have to start with a larger operator such as Canadian, who have a remarkable network of far north destinations, and then follow up with one of the many connecting mid-sized companies.

Often the pages of local Sunday newspapers list ticket bargains for longer flights, and if you've planned carefully VUSA tickets and individual airline passes can save money (see box). Any good travel agent, especially student and youth-oriented travel ones like Council Travel and STA, can usually get you a much better deal than the airlines themselves. Phone the airlines to find out routes and schedules, then buy your ticket using the Fare Assurance Program, which processes all the ticket options to find the cheapest fare, taking into account the requirements of individual travellers. One agent using the service is Travel Avenue (1-800/333-3335). Few stand-by fares are available, and the best discounts are usually offered on tickets booked and paid for at least two weeks in advance, which are almost always non-refundable and hard to change.

By Ferry

Ferries play an important role in transportation in the Pacific Northwest - in fact in some areas, they're effectively the only affordable way to travel. Alaska's state capital of Juneau, for example, can only be reached via water or air. Around Seattle and Vancouver, boats transport thousands of commuters a day to and from work, but for visitors, they're a novelty: an exhilarating way to experience the sheer scenic splendor of the area. Ferry travel can be expensive, however, when you bring a car along.

The voyage up the coast to Alaska, along the so-called Inside Passage, forms the cornerstone of many visitors' trips. Two separate ferry systems run boats along all or part of this journey - the Canadian-based BC Ferries, who also link with the Queen Charlotte Islands off the BC coast, and the more extensive American-run Alaska Marine Highway. Further south, Washington State Ferries operate a virtual monopoly on shorter crossings in and around the Puget Sound, and also connect with Canada's Vancouver Island.

Foot passengers using any of these companies should have few problems boarding boats, but if you're taking a car or hope to grab a cabin on longer journeys, you'll usually have to have booked places on summer sailings many months in advance. Contact the ferry companies directly for booking information (see box). When space allows, both Inside Passage companies allow backpackers to pitch their tents or unroll sleeping bags in the boat's gym or solarium, not only a comfy alternative to the deck, but also a great way of meeting people.

By Car

Although the weather may not always be ideal, and towns in the far north lie beyond the reach of the road, the appeal of cruising the open highway, preferably in an open-top convertible with the radio blaring, is as strong in the Northwest as it is across most of North America. Apart from anything else, a car makes it possible to choose your own itinerary and to explore the wide-open landscapes that may well provide your most enduring memories of the region.

The Northwest holds some of the continent's greatest highways - especially the infamous 1500-mile Alaska Highway and the Rockies' awe-inspiring Icefields Parkway. In addition you can experience the thrill of the frontier on a string of increasingly travelled wilderness roads, including the Cassiar Highway through northern BC, the Dempster across the Arctic Circle, and the Top of the World Highway from the old goldfields of the Klondike which crosses the high mountain tundra into Alaska. In Washington, the Cascade Loop enables travellers to penetrate the heart of the spectacular Cascade Mountains, while the Columbia River Gorge drive in Oregon explores the dramatic bluffs, ravines and waterfalls of the Columbia River.

The main border crossing between the US and Canada by car is on I-5 at Blaine, Washington, 30 miles south of Vancouver; immigration procedures are usually quick and simple, with the crossing open 24 hours a day.

Car Safety
Special factors associated with driving in the Northwest, however, are essential to take on board. Many northern roads, especially in the northern reaches of the Alaskan Interior, are gravel-topped, and often in poor condition. Dust and flying stones are major hazards, as are subsidence caused by ice (frost heaves) and the thundering heavy lorries that use such routes with little regard for automobiles. Weather is another potential danger, with severe snow falls possible in some areas even in August, and dense fog plaguing the coast of Washington and Oregon. If you're heading north radiators and headlights should be protected from stones and insects with a wire screen and headlight covers. Always carry a spare tire and fan belt, gas can (preferably full), fill up at every opportunity, and check where the next fuel is available (on the Cassiar or Dempster it could be literally hundreds of miles away). It goes without saying your car should be in excellent shape: it's also a good idea to carry flares, jack and a good set of tools and wrenches. These precautions may sound over the top, but after you've travelled a few northern roads, and seen the desolation to either side, they'll make more sense - and they might also save your life.

In the cities, a car is by far the most convenient way to negotiate your way around, especially as public transit can be scarce. Many Northwestern cities sprawl for so many miles in all directions that your hotel may be miles from the sights you came to see, or perhaps simply on the other side of a freeway which there's no way of crossing on foot. Even in smaller towns the motels may be six miles or more out along the highway, and the restaurants in a brand-new shopping mall on the far side of town.

Car Rental
Conditions for renting a car, together with the rental companies, are virtually identical in both Canada and the US. It is vital to note, however, that the majority of these companies are going to be extremely reluctant to rent cars if they know you're intending to travel on gravel roads (don't think they won't notice if you do - the dents in the paintwork will be a dead giveaway). Ask what arrangements they might be able to make, and if they refuse, rent a car from the northern-based outlets who tend to be understanding (and whose cars are probably both more robust and more battered into the bargain). Pick-ups are a great standby in such circumstances.

Drivers wishing to rent cars are supposed to have held their licences for at least one year; people under 25 years old may encounter problems, and will probably get lumbered with a higher than normal insurance premium (around $15 per day extra). Car rental companies (listed below) will also expect you to have a credit card; if you don't have one they may let you leave a hefty deposit (at least $200) but don't count on it. The likeliest tactic for getting a good deal is to phone the major firms' toll-free 800 numbers and ask for their best rate - most will try to beat the offers of their competitors, so it's worth haggling. Rental rates tend to be higher on the islands (especially the Queen Charlottes) and to rise the further north you travel.

In general the lowest rates are available at the airport branches - $149 a week for a subcompact is a fairly standard budget rate. Always be sure to get free unlimited mileage, and be aware that leaving the car in a different city to the one in which you rent it can incur a drop-off charge that can be as much as $200 or more. Also, don't automatically go for the cheapest rate, as there's a big difference in quality of cars from company to company; industry leaders like Alamo and Hertz tend to have newer, lower-mileage cars, often with air-conditioning and stereo cassette decks as standard equipment - no small consideration on the 1500 miles of the Alaska Highway.

Alternatively, various local companies rent out new - and not so new (try Rent-a-Wreck) - vehicles. They are certainly cheaper than the big chains if you just want to spin around a city for a day, but free mileage is not often included, so they work out far more costly for long-distance travel. Addresses and phone numbers are documented in the Yellow Pages.

When you rent a car, read the small print carefully for details on Collision Damage Waiver (CDW), sometimes called Liability Damage Waiver (LDW), a form of insurance which often isn't included in the initial rental charge but is well worth considering. This specifically covers the car that you are driving yourself - you are in any case insured for damage to other vehicles. At $9 to $13 a day, it can add substantially to the total cost, but without it you're liable for every scratch to the car - even those that aren't your fault. Some credit card companies (AMEX for example) offer automatic CDW coverage to anyone using their card; read the fine print beforehand in any case. Increasing numbers of states are requiring that this insurance be included in the weekly rental rate, and are regulating the amounts charged to cut down on rental car company profiteering; companies are also becoming more particular about checking up on the driving records of would-be renters and refusing to rent to high-risk drivers.

If you break down in a rented car, there should be an emergency number pinned to the dashboard. If you're on a main road, sit tight and wait for the RCMP, highway patrol or state/provincial police, who cruise by regularly. Raising your car hood is recognized as a call for assistance, although women travelling alone should be wary of doing this. Another tip is to rent a mobile telephone from the car rental agency - you often only have to pay a nominal amount until you actually use it, and in larger cities they increasingly come built in to the car, but having a phone can be reassuring at least, and a potential lifesaver should something go terribly wrong.

Car Rental Companies
In the US and Canada

Alamo 1-800/327-9633

Avis (Canada) 1-800/268-2310

Avis (US) 1-800/722-1333

Budget (Canada) 1-800/268-8900

Budget (US) 1-800/527-0700

Dollar 1-800/421-6868

Enterprise 1-800/325-8007

Hertz (Canada) 1-800/263-0600

Hertz (US) 1-800/654-3131

National 1-800/227-7368

Payless 1-800/729-5377

Rent-a-Wreck 1-800/535-1391

Snappy 1-800/669-4800

Thrifty 1-800/367-2277

Tilden (Canada) 1-800/361-5334

Tilden (US) 1-800/227-7368

Value 1-800/468-2583

Renting an RV
Recreational Vehicles or RVs - which range from a basic camper on the back of a pickup truck to a huge juggernaut equipped with multiple bedrooms, bathrooms and kitchens - can be rented from around US$400 per week (plus mileage charges). Though good for groups or families travelling together, these can be unwieldy on the road. Also, rental outlets are not as common as you might expect, as people tend to own their RVs. On top of the rental fees, take into account the cost of gas (some RVs do twelve miles to the gallon or less) and any drop-off charges, in case you plan to do a one-way trip across the country. Also, it is rarely legal simply to pull up in an RV and spend the night at the roadside; you are expected to stay in designated parks that cost up to $20 per night. Regulations for dumping and overnighting are especially strict in all national, state and provincial parks.

The Recreational Vehicle Rental Association, 3251 Old Lee Highway, Fairfax VA 22030 (703/591-7130 or 1-800/336-0355), publishes a newsletter and a directory of rental firms. A couple of the larger companies offering RV rentals are Cruise America (1-800/327-7799) and Go! Vacations (1-800/845-9888).

By Bike

As a rule, cycling is a cheap and healthy method to get around the Northwest, whether it's in the parks - you'll find that most have rental outlets and designated mountain bike trails - or in the big cities, some of which have cycle lanes and local buses equipped to carry bikes (strapped to the outside). Greyhound will take bikes (so long as they're in a box), and VIA rail and Amtrak make small charges for their transportation. Carriage charges on ferries, however, are more expensive: check with individual companies for rates and conditions. In country areas, roads are usually well maintained and with wide shoulders. A number of companies across the region organize multiday cycle tours, either camping out or staying in country inns; we've mentioned local firms where appropriate. Many individual states and provinces (notably Oregon) issue their own cycling guides; contact the tourist offices listed on p.27.

For more casual riding, bikes can be rented for $15 to $30 per day, or at discounted weekly rates, from outlets which are usually found close to beaches, university campuses, or simply in areas that are good for cycling, although rates in heavily touristed areas can be much higher. Local visitor centers should have details. Before setting out on a long-distance cycling trip, you'll need a good-quality, multispeed bike, panniers, tools and spares, maps, padded shorts, a helmet (not a legal obligation but a very good idea), and a route avoiding major highways and interstates (on which cycling is unpleasant and usually illegal). Of problems you'll encounter, the main one is traffic - RVs driven by buffoons who can't judge their width, and huge eighteen-wheelers (logging trucks are a menace in much of the Northwest) which scream past and create intense back-draughts capable of pulling you out into the middle of the road.

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