Some Recommended Restaurants

Mexican

• La Jolla in Hiro-o has great food and a wonderful no-smoking policy, but they cram the tables so close together that it's impossible to enjoy dinner and a good conversation because I always feel like I'm involved in the conversations of the people on either side. Cramming people together just doesn't cut it, but if they need the cash, I'd be happy to pay a more for the food -- it's worth it.

• El Quixco in Nishi-Ogikubo has good, solid Mexican food at good prices in a rather funky atmosphere on the second floor of a small building, above a curry shop. Good sized servings, and space between the tables! What a difference... but they do allow smoking. Lots of music -- they might let you bring your own CD's. They also serve Wilkinson ginger ale, which some people really seem to love. A local clientele of curious characters completes the feeling of the place.

Southeast Asian

• Liang's in Yotsuya is a tiny little place run by a family of Chinese Vietnamese. Really good food. In fact, they make so much that in addition to the normal menu, they have a wall full of pictures of dishes they can make with a day's notice. They also have monthly cooking classes and have published two cookbooks. Tiny and sometimes crowded.

Spaghetti

• Capriccosa in Yotsuya and many other places is a chain of Italian restaurants. It's known for its huge servings and rather surly staff. They, too, tend to pack people in close together, which takes away from the experience especially when your neighbors like to smoke a cigarette between each mouthfull. Popular with students, and there's often a line. Get there early. Closed Monday.

Greek

• The Agean is in Shibuya, in the basement of the Oriental Building, just down the street from a Dotour coffee shop on the uncrowded eastern side. It's a small, heavily decorated, somewhat expensive place with really good food and atmosphere. Lots of Greek wines, too. This place used to be in Ikebukuro and has been written up a lot. The address is 3-13-3 Shibuya. (03) 3407-1783. Probably a good idea to make a reservation for this one.

Nepalese

• Kantipur is also on the eastern side of Shibuya station and has great food. I forget how to get there, but it is very close to the famous (or infamous) Ninnikuya garlic restaurant. These two are probably a bit pricey, but what the hell? You can't take it with you.

Healthy Stuff

• Guruppe is in Ogikubo, located above a shop that sells organic vegetables. I think they're both run by the same people. The restaurant serves meals with organically grown vegetables and no meat other than fish. Good desserts, and a list of specials that sells out rather quickly each day. Closed Sunday.